First we bolted our throttle pedal to the frame and ran the ground, 5V, and signal wires under the frame to the back where they split to each motor controller.
We configured our batteries by wiring two pairs of 12V batteries in series and then wiring the two pairs in parallel. This way, each controller can draw up to 24V and 40A because each battery has a 40A fuse. There are two dean connector switches in between the battery configuration and the motor controllers. The switch in the rear can be unplugged and replaced with a battery charger.
The switch toward the front to the vehicle is the power cutoff switch. Unplugging it will cut all power to the controllers and motors in case of emergency. It is easily accessible from the driver seat or the outside of the car. A large resister and small toggle switch are connected in parallel to the main power switch so that the capacitors in the controllers can be charged before the battery voltage is applied to them.
We bolted our motor controllers to the back of the car seat.
Each controller supplies power to the corresponding motor through 3 wires. To determine what current to apply to each of the three motor power cables, a hall sensor board is mounted above each motor as shown below. The hall sensor takes 5V from the controller and outputs a signal on three wires, A, B, and C. Both the motor wires and the hall sensor output wire are connected with bullet joint so they can be swapped out to find the combination that works for driving the motor.
After we wired everything up, found the correct combination of hall sensor and motor wires, and calibrated the hall sensors, we were good to go. The car works awesome and is so much fun to drive around! Woohoo!!